India Travel Notes» Uttarakhand

Vacation by the Ganges: Devprayag

editor — Mon, 17 Oct 2011 04:30:56 +0000

by Deepali Sharma

The boisterous and strong Bhagirathi river gushes down from the one side and the calm and quiet Alaknanda flows in from the other, merging to form what we know as the as holy Ganges river. This is one of the five sacred confluences in the hills of Uttarankhand and the place is Devprayag, a small town in the Tehri district of Uttarakhand.

Photograph by – Deepali Sharma Sanwal

As I travel along the Ganges from Rishikesh to Devprayag, my paternal village, I am overwhelmed with a feeling of belonging and nostalgia of my childhood days, spent running around in the mango orchards and trekking to nearby hills. As a child, I had done this journey every summer with my parents to visit my grandparents. Years later, I wanted to relive the experience and decided to do away with my car and jumped into a local bus. As our bus by passed the Laxman Jhula in Rishikesh and moved up the meandering roads, the driver put on pahari music which seemed to resonate in the valleys all around. I could hear myself humming to the tunes I had grown up listening to.

The journey from Rishikesh to Devprayag is an adventurous one as one drives up the mountains and can see the Ganges flowing, looking peaceful and placid. To some, it is also scary as one can really feel scaling the heights as the distance between the road and the river increases. Depending on the time of the year, one can see colorful rafts in the water. This area has now become a popular destination for the fun and adventure lovers who love the kicks out of rafting, rappelling or simply playing with the currents of Ganga. Though the volume of water in the river has gone down considerably after the Tehri Dam became operational, it is enough for water sports. The place looks much more tourist friendly and commercially inclined now than it did few years back. However, a tea-break at Biyasi got back memories and somehow this age-old interval point seems to have been untouched by the activities in the near-by Kaudiyala and the high volume of tourists that now flock to this place. After crossing Saknidhaar, the highest point on this journey, the decent starts till one reaches the bus stand at Devprayag. A small trek up the hill took me to the comfort of my home.

Located at a height of 2265 feet, Devprayag is a small town of religious importance to the pilgrims of Char Dham darshan. In old days, when the pilgrimage was done on foot, people used stop here for a dip in the holy waters of Ganga, a tradition that is still considered as scared. One can find the local people taking the holy dip on various important days of the Hindu calendar. I had heard from my grandfather that a man called Anant Bhatt had come here from South India with Adi Shankaracharya in the 8th century and believed to have settled here. We are all his descendants. I often look into the mirror to see if my features look more south Indian than north Indian! The main ancestral occupation was teerth-purohit in the holy shrine of Badrinath. These purohits spend half a year in Badrinath and rest of their time in meeting their jajmaans( or clients in today’s business parlance). This has however changed and the people have ventured into other tourist related business and most have opened resorts or dharamshalas in Badrinath.

Once a small sleepy town, mainly of religious importance, Devprayag today has much more to offer. For those who are looking for adventure, spiritualism or just a relaxed time away from the hustle bustle of city life, it is a perfect place, largely unexplored so far.

For those interested in catching a glimpse of the folk and culture of the place, ask the hotel manager to arrange for a local dance. Manyaan, as it is known is a dance form where people dance in circles on beats of dhol. Though much has changed, certain beliefs still linger on all along ages. It is said that some people get possessed by Gods and Goddess when they hear the drums and then they foretell future. This is something I have seen since my childhood days, but my logical mind does not let me believe it, though I could reason out scientifically that there could be vibrations in the body that the power of music generates. But whether you wish to believe it or not, one thing is for sure, that at times the sight can be just too scary. But this is a rare thing and it is best to just join the dancing group and groove to the pahari moves.

Devprayag is a place where one can go for a weekend or spend a day or two while enroute to higher reaches of the Himalayas. People halt here on way to pilgrimage to the char-dham or if they are proceeding for trekking.

Since the place is relatively small, it does not have big shops like other hill stations. But one can enjoy local delicacies and sweets like bal mithai, jalebi and singuri in the eateries near the bus stand. A walk through the narrow by-lanes of the town and one can get a glimpse of the lives of the simple hilly people. Though the food is generally simple, it is very tasty with minimal of spices and yet mouth watering. Do not expect exotic dishes but simple food with great taste and served with a smile. One thing that cannot be missed out is the hospitality of the locals. The simplicity of the pahari people, their dressing, their food and lifestyle is well reflected in this no-frills place.

As I laid for rest in the courtyard of my paternal house, the stillness of the night descended upon me. As the night falls, thousands of stars are visible in the clear sky and feel so near that one can almost extend an arm to catch hold of them. One can see satellites and falling stars with naked eyes, especially on a new moon night. I had just forgotten what the sky looked like in the city. I could hear myself singing the nursery rhyme.. Twinkle-twinkle little star… and realized that one does neither need to wonder about the star nor it seems so high above the sky….and in no time I was fast asleep.

Next morning when I got into the bus to return to Delhi, I felt rejuvenated and refreshed. The two day visit had infused a new sense of life in me so that I could carry on with the hectic and frenzied ways of city life till my next visit to my roots. As the engine started grunting, a sense of pride filled me up. I was so thankful to Anant Bhatt (if that was his name) that he decided to settle down in this beautiful small town, right in the lap of the mighty Himalayas and the mother river Ganges.

FACT FILE

Where to stay

The Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam rest house, located about a km ahead of the main market is a peaceful stay option. There are other newly opened private resorts with most modern amenities. These also organize trips and excursions on request. Though, the traffic is relatively low during off peak season, it is still a better idea to make an advance booking.

Best time to visit

The best time to visit the place depends up on the kind of tourist one is. For the pilgrims, generally the peak season is in summers. However, due to its low altitude, it gets warm during the day time, though nights get pleasant. For the sporty and adventurous, end January to April is a good time for rafting. And if you want to enjoy the nature and have a relaxed time, winters are the best to just bask in the bright sun, sipping tea and reading a novel. The water of the Ganges is blue and crystal clear in winters. The place is good for any time of the year except peak monsoon. There could be land slides along the way leading to traffic blockages.

Getting there

A ten hour road journey from Delhi. The nearest rail head in Rishikesh or Dehradun. The nearest airport is at Dehradun. Air Deccan flies twice daily from Delhi.

What to do
Rafting, trekking, nature trails, meditation and relaxation.

About the author:
Deepali Sharma is an economist by profession and is a professor at an indian university. An avid travller, she loves to travel whenever she gets to. She dabbles in travel writing and photography as hobbies.

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Things to do in Devprayag

editor — Fri, 14 Oct 2011 04:30:43 +0000

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by Deepali Sharma

Start the day with a visit to the famous Raghunath temple. Some inscriptions carved are supposed to be from around 5th century. If you go there during the festive seasons of Basant Panchmi, you can witness the famous fair in the temple courtyard where people from near by places come to pray and enjoy. During the navratras, one can see the Ramayana being enacted. This tradition has been on for years and mostly the best acting talents are reserved for it. The dasharas of Garhwal and Kumaon are very famous and worth a watch. The colors, music and dances can be seen everywhere and music echoes in the hills during the festive season. If it’s the marriage season, one may get a chance to see the bride who goes to the temple before entering her in-laws’ place. The big nose ring, made of gold and at times weighing up to few kilograms, must not be missed, which the bride would be adorning. For those wanting to indulge in gossip or stories, just settle down in shops where locals will entertain you with stories of ghosts, wildlife and everything that is interesting in their lives.

Photogrph by – Deepali Sharma Sanwal

Walking down the eighty steps of the temple, one can see the sangam, the point of confluence of rivers and take a dip in the cold water of the Ganges. However, one has to be cautious of the strong current of water at sangam. Be sure not to test your swimming skills and hold on to the iron chains while inside the water. It is said that only the strongest of swimmers can beat the waves and whirlpool.

An excursion from Devprayag can take one to Chandrabadni temple, 22 km away. A 10 km trek from Kandi khal, the temple is considered very scared by the local and visited frequently after the conclusion of any important chore. Located at a height of 2277 meters, there is a magnificent view of the valley below. Though the road can take one right to the temple steps, a trek is the most enthralling experience to enjoy the forest and the nature. And if you are lucky enough, you might spot a tiger. Tigers were a rare sight in days of thick forest and often used to come to villages to find prey of cattle and dogs. A common local parlance “Baagh laga hai” implies there is a tiger in the area.

A small drive from here is the Tehri Dam. A sight worth seeing that demonstrates how man, with the help of science and technology, can change the direction of strongest of rivers and cut through the mightiest of mountains. A small part of the old Tehri town that got submerged in water could still be seen when I went there last summer. It gives a mixed feeling of astonishment, joy and some sense of loss. Heart goes out to those who have given up their sense of identity, belongingness and homes for a better and brighter future of thousands who benefit from such large projects. The residents of old town are now rehabilitated into a modern “New Tehri” town.

For those interested in astrology, a visit to Nakshatra Vedshala and Observatory is a treat. It is located at a small walking distance from the bus stand. One can find a rich collection of old manuscripts dating back to 17th century and hundreds of books on astrology. The place also has vast collection of sun dials, moon dials and water clocks. The place is generally full of life when the purohit, Shri Bhaskar Pandit, Guruji as he is popularly known, is at home. Lots of young can be seen there who are keen to learn about the nuances of astrology and palm reading.

If you are in a mood for more adventure, a trek to the famous Danda Naggarja temple can consume one full day. So whether you wish to pray to the Lord of Snakes, as the locals do or just want to trek, this is a highly recommended activity.

One can also go for rafting. Depending on how long one wants to raft for, different packages are provided. The evening can be spent quietly at sangam where one can witness daily prayer being offered to the river, which has been the source of livelihood and life to thousands of people who reside along the banks of the Ganges all through the huge Gangiatic plane. There are many caves on the sides where many sages stay and meditate. On my visit, I met a young boy from Orissa who had taken a break from corporate life to “find peace and inner self”, as he put it. Just then his cell phone rang and it was a call from his mother who was coaxing him to get married. As the sun sets right in front and the day draws to an end, the only sounds one can hear are those of the strong waves of the river and chirping of the birds returning to their homes. So if you are in a mood to just relax or meditate, this is the ideal place.